Caramel Syrup: Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Arrange eight 3/4-cup custard cups on work surface.

Place sugar in heavy medium skillet (do not use non-stick); shake to even thickness. Cook over medium heat without stirring until sugar starts to dissolve, becoming clear in spots and at edge, 5 to 6 minutes. Using wooden spoon, stir until all sugar is dissolved and syrup turns deep amber, about 5 minutes longer. Add 1/2 cup water (mixture will bubble up). Simmer just until caramel is smooth and thickened, stirring constantly, 1 to 2 minutes. Divide caramel among 8 cups (or a large custard dish). Using oven mitts, immediately tilt and rotate cups so hot caramel coats bottom and sides.

Custard: Combine sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, whole milk and sugar in heavy large saucepan. Scrape in seeds from vanilla beans, add beans. Add cinnamon sticks and lemon peel. Stir over medium heat until bubbles form at edge of saucepan and sugar is dissolved. Set asside to steep 15 minutes.

Whisk eggs in large bowl to blend. Gradually whisk in the warm cream mixture (including vanilla beans, cinnamon sticks, and lemon peel). Strain custard into bowl, then divide among caramel-lined cups. Place cups in roasting pan. Add enough hot water to roasting pan to come halfway up sides of cups.

Bake flans until just set in center, about 35 minutes. Transfer to large rimmed baking sheet. Chill uncovered until cold, then cover and keep chilled overnight.

Cut around each flan to loose. Turn out each flan with caramel syrup onto individual plates.

Great by itself, or garnished with orange segments!

Amount: Serves 8 people